Holy Toledo!

Today I took a day trip to Toledo, a nearby historical city with Christian, Jewish, and Muslim roots. Along the way we visited a cathedral (the second largest in Spain), synagogue, and mosque.

We also had the chance to view one of my favorite pieces of art, El Greco's The Burial of the Count of Orgaz.

We stopped for lunch (paella, chicken, and several bottles of wine) at a nearby hotel...

The city is known for its marzipan and turron, and one candy shop had a reproduction of the Museo de Santa Cruz made out of marzipan!

Royal Flush

Kara and George, Adam's roommate, came to visit for the weekend and brought the Barcelona blue skies with them! We ate lunch at the Museo de Jamon (Museum of Ham) on the famous Plaza Mayor before touring the Palacio Real (Royal Palace).

The Palacio Real was partially under construction, so we didn't get a chance to see the Chapel, but we did manage to see our fair share of clocks, chandeliers, and gold-encrusted ceilings...

Top Five at the Thyssen

My visit to Lagrimas de Eros (Tears of Eros), a visiting exhibit at the Museo Thyssen - Bornemisza, was definitely the highlight of my afternoon (and it put my knowledge from Professor Graham's Freudian-based English course to use)! The art demonstrated "the Classical issue of the intimate relationship between Eros and Thanatos, between sex drive and death instinct." The exhibit was divided into several sections including: the Birth of Venus, the Song of the Sirens, the Kiss, and San Sebastian. It confronted death, as both beautiful and terrifying, as it exists intertwined with love and seduction. The exhibit culminated with a series of multimedia projections that explored a mix of water and eroticism.

I particularly liked the combination of eroticism and submission in Dali's "Las Rosa Sangrantes" and the theme of bondage/mutual slavery in Warhol's "The Kiss." I learned a lot about San Sebastian's position as the gay icon (with his face of agony and ecstasy). I was also impressed with the juxtaposition of older works (paintings from 1899) next to current pieces (photographs from 2004).

After an overdose of sirens, nymphs, and mermaids, I headed to the permanent collection, which begins on the second floor. Here, in no particular order, are my top five favorites from the collection at the Museo Thyssen - Bornemisza:

1. Van Gogh, Les Vessenots

2. Lichtenstein, Woman in Bath

3. Ernst, Lone Tree and United Trees

4. Degas, Bailarinas Verdes

5. Mondrian, New York City 3

Running for a Reason

In search of a new running route, I chose el Museo Sorolla as my mid-run stopping point! Joaquin Sorolla's house, which was designed to resemble portions of El Alhambra, now houses his own artwork and furniture as well as the works of his close friends. Sorolla was well known for his portraits (Spanish Royalty, President Taft) and paintings of Spanish social and historical significance. He painted a series of large canvases depicting "Visions of Spain," which were commissioned for the Hispanic Society of America.

The gardens and tiled entryways to the museum were so impressive! Inspired by the Generalife in Granada, Sorolla designed the layout of the garden.

While I was visiting, several small groups of elementary school-aged children were visiting. When the children were in the dining room, the tour guide explained that Sorolla loved chocolate. One child asked, "con churros?!"

Here I am, running clothes and all, in front of "La Siesta," (1911) a famous painting of Sorolla's wife, two daughters, and niece lying on the grass for a traditional afternoon nap.

The museum was overwhelming at times as it was filled from floor to ceiling with Sorolla's artwork and furniture. I particularly liked his desk with paintbrushes on top...

A Sunday Block Party

The Rastro, Madrid's large open-air flea market, takes place every Sunday from 9 am - 3 pm. Despite a late night at Kapital, some friends and I went to check out the madness in the center of Madrid. Hundreds of booths offered crafts, leather goods, old books, jewelry, art, and funky clothing. The streets, lined with booths selling souvenir goods and t-shirts, are also filled with tourists and pickpockets!

Spending Capital at Kapital

Kapital in Madrid has proclaimed itself as "advanced night culture." With a cover charge of 15-20 euros, the seven-story discoteca boasts a Bacardi Mojito lounge on the sixth floor and a Hookah lounge on the seventh level. The second floor is dedicated to karaoke, and the third floor pumps R&B beats all night long. Known as one of the best clubs in Spain, Kapital attracts partygoers from all around the world.

Because Madrid's Metro system closes at 1:30 AM, we all stayed until 6 am when the Metro reopened! A few highlights: an amazing bongo drummer on the first floor, some entertaining Irish guys, and the 20 minute wait in line for the coat check...

The Best Things In Life Are Free

My liberal arts education - or at least my student ID - is starting to pay for itself. Madrid has many national museums that are free to the general public or free for students. And for the rest of the museums, the Vassar-Wesleyan program will cover 50-100% of the admission fee! Last Friday I visited the Museo del Romanticismo and the Templo del Debod. On Saturday I headed to the Museo Arqueologico Nacional and the Museo Biblioteca Nacional.

I came across an article about the newly renovated and renamed Museo del Romanticismo in the New York Times this past winter and decided it was worth a visit. This small museum housed in the palace of the Marquis of Matallana captures the essences of 19th century middle class life in Madrid. The Romanticism exhibits include a wide range of art -- from paintings (and painted ceilings) to pianos, coins to carpets. There were different types of pianos in nearly every room!

The museum also offered a small English guide that detailed the purpose of each room. I was intrigued by the gendered spaces -- rooms that were designated as purely masculine or feminine. One of the "men's" rooms displayed a host of artwork that depicted the satire of a romantic suicide. The "women's" rooms were associated with children and the display of "insignificant" trinkets.

After leaving the museum and searching for the Ferrocarril, a gondola ride around Madrid that happened to be closed for the season, we stumbled upon el Templo de Debod, an ancient Egyptian temple that was rebuilt in Spain. The temple itself if proceeded by two large stone gateways. The site was underwhelming; the stone carvings had worn down, and the top floor of the temple was hot and cramped. However, I've heard that the sunsets there are beautiful, so I hope to return some day soon.

On Saturday I visited two museums in the Salamanca neighborhood. El Museo Arqueologico Nacional (National Museum of Archaeology) is small but packed with interesting artifacts! The museum compiles the personal collections of several Spanish monarchs and has lots of ancient swords and jewelry. My two favorite artifacts were a coffin and a sundial (pictured below).

El Museo Arqueologico Nacional shares a building with El Biblioteca Nacional (the National Library). The library has its own museum with an permanent exhibit that places Spain's history of the written word on a chronological timeline beginning with the 16th century. The exhibits were quite long and required a lot of reading in Spanish, but an exhibit about Guttenberg's printing press caught my eye. Overall, I learned about bits and pieces of Spain's history.

The Paradox of Choice

Like many overstimulated consumers, I am overcome with anxiety when it comes time to make a decision, big or small. With over nine types of cheese (gouda, brie, manchego) and various meats, the unlimited possibilities at a sandwich shop near my school's campus in Getafe are enough to spike one's blood pressure.

Waiting in line with just four or five people can take a half an hour as the women measure out the fresh ingredients, carve out the insides of the loaves of bread, paint on the pesto, and pile on the toppings. I've heard that the wait can double or triple once the regulars return for classes!

The two women that work behind the counter are so sweet; they address everyone as "carino" or "guapa"! They are dedicated to the craft of sandwich making and have definitely mastered the art of customer satisfaction. [Did I mention that the sandwiches are reasonably priced and cost less than a Cosi Grilled Chicken TBM?!] The women often dedicate sandwiches to loyal customers, and the walls are plastered with suggestions for the best of the best.

On my first trip to the shop, I ordered a modified version of the "Jared," named in honor of a student from the Vassar-Wesleyan program last semester. It consisted of ciabatta bread with pesto, avocado, brie, chicken, tomato and salmorejo. Today I returned and ordered a carefully-planned masterpiece: ciabatta with pesto, gouda, turkey, avocado and tomato.

Stop and Stare

I couldn't resist the street performers; they are everywhere! Each has a unique "talent," but the following are the ones that stuck with me...

When I dropped some change into their bin, the heads came to life, and the center face blew a kiss as I took a picture!

Everybody's Doing It

Today was my first day free from class and scheduled orientation activities, so I took the opportunity to check out the typical touristy spots in Madrid with Adam. We started off with two museums in the Salamanca neighborhood and then headed to Sol, the heart of Madrid, to have lunch, eat/devour chocolate con churros, and walk around the plaza. Here are some shots from our afternoon...

The Estatua del Oso y el Madroño is one of the most well-known symbols of Madrid, and it had moved since the last time I was in Madrid!

"Kilometro Cero," renovated in 2009, is the location from which the distances of Spain's highways are measured.

Per my host mother's recommendation, we headed to "Chocolateria San Gines." The restaurant, which was founded in 1890, is known for its "chocolate con churros" and is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.