This Cloud's Silver Lining

Today was going smoothly until... I logged on to print my boarding passes for my flight to Berlin only to find that my flight had been cancelled due to a strike in France! My first reaction was, of course, to panic - especially upon having to communicate with the EasyJet customer service representative in Spanish and hearing that the next flight to Berlin didn't leave until Friday at noon. How could I afford to miss eight hours of my precious time in Berlin? I ended up settling for the replacement flight and making the most of my time here in Madrid. [My program director was actually somewhat happy that I was finally staying in Madrid for part of a weekend!]

Anyway, here's how it all panned out. On the way home from school, Daisey, Meredith, and I stopped for a famous chocolate Neapolitan pastry at the classic La Mallorquina pastry shop in Sol to temporarily remedy the situation. Afterwards, I headed to el Museo Nacional del Prado (free entry after 18 h.), and I got about halfway through Rick Steve's tour of the best of the best. I particularly liked returning to see Goya's The Third of May (after just having visited his tomb at La ermita de San Antonio de la Florida the other day).

With Sol as my final destination, I then navigated through some winding backroads before conveniently coming across Viva La Vida, a vegetarian/organic market/buffet. [I can't wait to go back to pick up some food for a picnic at the nearby Royal Botanical Gardens once the weather warms up!] I topped the night off with a delicious dinner with Adam at Sobrino del Botin, the world's oldest restaurant according to the Guinness Book of World Records! I had three specialty courses: the Botin salad, roasted suckling pig, and a meringue cake!

After all, I ended up having a perfect afternoon in Madrid, despite the minor traveling glitch!

Chapandaz: Champion Cave Bar

Hesitant to forgo yet another weekend of Madrid nightlife (this time to travel to Berlin), some friends and I decided to make up for lost time by heading to Chapandaz, a somewhat hidden cave bar in our neighborhood. The bar, decked out with stalagmites in the fashion of a cave, serves exclusive drinks in huge quantities -- the fishbowl size is the largest. Their famous specialty (La Leche) is poured from a giant stalagmite over the bar! As we sipped away at El Especial, both Spanish and American pop music blasted from the speakers to make for an overall fun Wednesday night!

Feministing

I'm well aware that I'm lifting this post's title directly from a more famous blog dedicated to providing an "online community for feminists and their allies," but I feel that it is ever so appropriate for my afternoon adventure!

After exploring the neighborhood of Lavapies in search of a flamenco dance studio (that I eventually found -- along with some appropriate shoes for the course), I ended up at Libreria Mujeres, a small, funky feminist bookstore tucked away on a street between Sol and the Plaza Mayor. Despite its minimal square footage, the bookstore maximized its shelf space and carried translations of all of the major American titles (Woolf's Un Cuarto Propio, Beauvoir's El Segundo Sexo, and Cixous' La risa de la Medusa) that I have analyzed over and over again in courses at school. Although the texts weren't in English, it was comforting to come across familiar works and, at the same time, exciting to see the widespread distribution of women's writing!

Take it to the Extreme

My study abroad program treated us to a three-day weekend in Extremadura, a large autonomous region in Western Spain. Although it is not an area that I would have chosen to visit on my own, I had a fun time reuniting with friends from the program who I do not see on a daily basis and exploring the ins and outs of the area. One of the most notable aspects of the trip was the abundance of storks (cigueñas) perched atop the towers and steeples of churches!

Guadalupe: We visited a large monastery and had the opportunity to see the Virgin of Guadalupe. Capturing our attention with his melody, a singing monk shared the statue’s importance.

Mérida: Arriving in the capital of Extremadura at dusk after a long bus ride, Daisey, Karla, and I spent some time exploring the city at night with a walk across the Puente Romano, the longest of all existing Roman bridges. The next day, our group walked around the ancient ruins that remain in the city. Some of my favorites were the Temple of Diana and the Roman Amphitheater. We also visited the Museum of Roman Art, home to Augustus’ head. Cool fact: Because the roman leaders changed so frequently (and statues were so expensive and time-consuming to build), the sculptors would just knock off the head of an existing sculpture and place a new one in its spot!

Caceres: After boarding the bus from Mérida and arriving in Caceres, we enjoyed a sweet treat of candied egg yolks from the Convent of San Pablo. We toured the winding stone paths of the area and dined on tapas in the Plaza Mayor!

Trujillo: We were almost washed away considering the unusual amount of rain, but we had an interesting tour of the town (home to conquistador Francisco Pizarro) that culminated with a visit to the Wine and Cheese museum (free samples)! Of course, the rain let up just as we were boarding the bus to return to Madrid.

Commuting to Getafe: A Photoessay

Believe it or not, I do actually take classes, and getting to school is somewhat of a production. La Universidad de Carlos III in Getafe is about a 50-minute commute from my house.

I first walk (about nine minutes) from my apartment to a nearby metro stop. After waiting for the Metro, which usually comes every three to five minutes, I head to Sol where I pick up the Renfe, a commuter train.

The trip on the Renfe from Sol to Las Margaritas (my university stop) usually takes about 20 minutes - on a good day. However, the line, although new, is somewhat temperamental and sometimes decides to stop randomly for extended periods of time.

Once arriving at Las Margaritas, I have a pretty visually-unappealing eight minute walk to the school campus. [There is also a bus / metro route that I can take, but I personally prefer the walk / train combo.]

The University campus has about 20 buildings, two cafeterias, multiple libraries, and several courtyards (but it pales in comparison to Vassar)!

Spain's Armada and Armoire

Today I spent time at two themed museums in Madrid: el Museo Naval (the Naval Museum) and el Museo del Traje (Museum of Clothing/Fashion).

The extensive history of Spain's Armada definitely justified the need for a large Naval Museum alongside the Prado, one of the world's most prestigious art collections. Each room of the Naval Museum, ordered chronologically, contained various models, maps, and weapons from different periods in history. Some of my favorite exhibits included a display of dozens of nautical knots, an American flag seized during war, a collection of Columbus' "treasures" that he collected from King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, and what is believed to be the first map of the Americas as portrayed by Spanish conquistadors.

Because the museum is run by the Spanish Navy, it had some of the strictest security that I have seen thus far, and I had to present a copy of my passport in order to enter.

After class I ventured to the Museo del Traje to put my finger on Spain's fabulous trends ranging from the Fifteenth century to the present. The museum exhibited clothes of royalty, milk maids, children's dolls, bullfighters, explorers, and more. I absorbed a ton of fun facts; for example: historically, there was no distinction between the shoes for a lady's right and left feet. Some of my favorite pieces came from more recent periods such as the Roaring Twenties.

I especially appreciated the exhibit on women's undergarments (corsets, lingerie). It's impossible to avoid the role that fashion played (and still plays) in understanding the ideal body image. The extent to which women were expected to wear dresses that extended their rear or crushed their ribs was quite repulsive, at times.

In Memoriam

On a more somber note...

Yesterday I visited the memorial monument in honor of the victims from the March 11th ETA bombings at the Atocha train station. The silent room - amidst the bustling transportation hub - was lit by a single stream of light from above. The glass tube through which the light entered was covered with spiraling messages (in multiple languages) of peace and hope.

Laughter: A Universal Language

Last night I went to an incredible silent comedy show, Garrick by Tricicle, on Calle Gran Via. The trio had been recommended to me by one of my professors at the University of Granada during my orientation program. When I came across the tickets in Madrid, I couldn't turn down the opportunity!

Garrick opened with a basic lesson in laughing, a rundown of the hundreds of different laughs that are produced on a daily basis. The comedians then offered the audience a tutorial in simple humor. The show consisted of several different skits involving different simple props - toilet seats, lab coats, newspapers, and an audience member's coat. The performance was interactive, and the actors played off of the audience's reaction. Although the skits were unique and separate, there were reoccurring moments of "basic humor" throughout.

One benefit of the predominantly "silent" show was that it required little to no understanding of the Spanish language, so I had no reason to get lost in the dialogue! Also, the jokes were genuinely hilarious, and the three guys didn't rely on cursing or sexist/racist stereotypes to get a hearty chuckle from the audience.

A Brush with Fame

What better way to spend a rainy day than pay a visit to Francisco Franco, Harry Potter, John F. Kennedy, Carlos I, and Elvis Presley in one afternoon? Although it is no Madame Tussaud's, Madrid's Museo de Cera (Wax Museum) was full of historical figures, musicians, politicians, fictional characters, actors, and athletes! The museum was overpriced (16 euro for admission) and in need of a slight renovation, but it had a well-rounded display of Spain's (and the United States') most famous faces. My personal favorites were Mary Poppins, Cervantes, and Snow White (who was actually quite tan) with her seven dwarfs.

I spent some quality time with Johnny Depp as Adam discussed business with Bill Gates...

Orange Alert

As I was watching the news during dinner with my senora, the main story was, of course, the quarter inch of snow that fell today in Madrid! With light rain and temperatures at 34 degrees Fahrenheit, the city isn't quite sure how to deal with this rare winter, so they've put the city on "Orange Alert" to deal with the "consequences of the storm." I can't help but laugh...

Paris, j'taime

There’s no way that words (or pictures) can capture the past weekend in Paris, but here’s my best attempt:

We landed at d’Orly airport on a cold Thursday night and then headed to our hotel, conveniently located in the third arrondissement. We started Thursday morning off on the right foot with some warm crepes stuffed with Nutella and bananas! We walked through the snowy Jardin de Tuileries on our way to Musée l’Orangerie in search of Monet’s waterlillies and other impressive works. We also visited the museum’s special exhibit Les Enfants Modèles, which displayed the artwork of famous artists who used their own children as models and their children’s responses to the artwork. We then strolled from the obelisk at Place de la Concorde down the Champs-Elysées to the Arc du Triomphe. Although the skies weren’t cooperating, we still got a panoramic view of the twelve-point intersection from the top of the Arc!

We met up for a filling falafel lunch at L’Aus du Falafel in the Marais with my friend Brittany, who is currently studying in Paris. Although I had hoped to go to the Musée Picasso (currently closed for renovations until 2012) after lunch, we headed to the Centre Pompidou instead. I fell in love with the fifth floor exhibit, Elles@centrepompidou, which essentially was a re-hanging of the permanent collection’s works by female artists. Over 500 works were hung chronologically by themes, and some of my favorites included feminist advertisements by the Guerilla Girls and a feminist’s furry take on Mondrian’s work.

After the museum, Brittany introduced us to some incredible pastries (macarons) and the world’s best cupcakes at Berko. We then headed to the Louvre to admire the pyramid (and try some Parisian McDonalds) before heading in for a whirlwind tour of the “masterpieces.” I found the museum overwhelming, to say the least; the crowd (and six guards) in front of the Mona Lisa was almost as entertaining as the piece itself.

Per Rachel’s recommendation, we had an incredible dinner at Le Petite Chaise, which was founded in 1680 and stands as the oldest restaurant in Paris. I enjoyed a cauliflower and beet salad to start, followed by pork filet mignon and a gingerbread mouse to end the night.

We began Saturday morning with delicious organic scones, granola, and porridge at the Rose Bakery (thanks, Emily)! We then ventured to Montmartre to pay a visit to the Espace Dalí, which houses many sculptures, furniture, and etchings by Dali, and the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur. The Dalí museum was a personal favorite; I learned so much about his preoccupation with time (famously represented by his signature melting clocks) and feminine beauty. We warmed up with a lunch of duck confit (thanks to a mistranslated menu) and beef stew in the loft of a cozy restaurant, Au Pied de Fouet. After waiting outside for a long, windy twenty minutes to enter the Musée d’Orsay, we finally got a chance to enter and see Courbet’s Origin of the World and Van Gogh’s Self Portrait, among other impressive pieces. Due to renovations, the museum was packed and the Impressionism wing was barely navigable. [Luckily there were some comfy benches where Adam could improve his skills on his new Fifa iPhone app since his “feet hurt.”]

At the Bistrot des Victoires, we were lucky to have a waiter who hailed from Madrid and was able to help us translate the dinner menu (although you can’t possibly go wrong). Adam chose the famous “l'entrecôte grillée au thym brûlé.” When the meat came, the thyme was smoldering on top! I ordered the Tartine Italienne, and we topped it off with some authentic crème brulee and profiteroles. Afterwards, we made our way to the Eiffel Tower for a glance at the illuminated monument. We were surprised by the sparkling lights on the hour and impressed by the warm chocolate crepes served nearby!

We began Sunday morning with a stroll down Rue Montorguiel in search of croissants at the legendary Patisserie Stohrer (where Queen Elizabeth picked up her pastries while visiting Paris). The buttery biscuits were nothing short of perfect. After trekking to the Ile de la Cité, I was disappointed to hear that the Sainte Chapelle was closed for the day due to the “weather conditions.” However, the beautiful stained glass at the Notre Dame remedied the situation! Although the treasury and tower were closed, we had the opportunity to sit in on a mass at the cathedral.

After some admiring, we continued across the river to the Mosquée du Paris, the largest in France. There were many similarities between this site and the interior design of Sevilla’s Real Alcazar and Granada’s Alhambra, but two aspects (obviously food related) stuck out in particular. While inside, I sampled a spoonful from a steaming pot of cous cous and chick peas. Afterwards, we rounded the corner of the building to head into the attached Muslim restaurant for some sweet mint tea!

For our final meal in Paris, we chose the Café Charlot (thanks again, Emily)! We sat against the window along the street (perfect for people watching) and enjoyed some warm goat cheese salad, chicken burgers, and champagne for Valentine’s Day. Before heading back to our hotel, we were bombarded with a large, loud parade in honor of the Chinese New Year. The parade brought colorful costumes, firecrackers, and tangible excitement for an energetic finish to the whirlwind of a weekend!

Needless to say, we left the city – full and exhausted (aren’t you?) – with some incredible memories and the photographs to show for it. Returning to Madrid was comforting (I know approximately ten French words), relaxing (the French metro was PACKED!), and toasty (about 20 degrees warmer), but bittersweet as well. I will definitely miss the food and fashion that the Parisians have to offer!

Super Sunday

I went to Foster's Hollywood American Restaurant for the Super Bowl tonight, and it was a game to remember. The biggest disappointment was the lack of commercials -- there was not a single one to be seen! (After all, what is the Super Bowl without the ads?) In lieu of the Budweiser frog, the channel replayed countless plays in slow motion.

The bar was mostly filled with Spaniards who cheered every time a limb hit the ground (regardless of the jersey color). Some spectators even went so far as to paint their cheeks with war paint. Others wore USA t-shirts and football jerseys of various teams to show their American pride.

The setting was quite comical overall, but the best moment by far was... singing the Star Spangled Banner for a local Spanish radio station! Shortly before halftime, a man came up to us after learning that we were Americans. He asked us a few questions (what did we study, did we like Spain) and then asked if we knew our national anthem. Although skeptical at first, we agreed and surely pleased the crowd. We received a hearty applause for what may be considered the most out-of-tune version of the song!

Pastries, Plazas, and Pottery - Oh my!

It is impossible to capture Sevilla in one day (or one blog post), but here is my best attempt:

We arrived at the Sevilla bus station at 7 am, six hours after boarding the Socibus in Madrid. After stopping for some coffee and Cola Cao at the train station, we headed to Horno San Buenaventura for a delicious breakfast (just one euro!) of toast with butter and orange marmalade. Sevilla is known for its orange trees, but the oranges are bitter and essentially inedible. So, the oranges are used for "Mermelada de Naranja Amarga."

Most of the main sites didn't open until after 9:30 am, so we spent some time walking along the Guadalquivir River and admiring the Torre de Oro, a tower that once served as an anchor point for the chain that crossed the river and is now known for its golden appearance in the sunlight.

The Real Alcazar (Royal Palace) of Sevilla, constructed with both Muslim and Christian cultural/architectural influences, is still used today by the Royal Family as their main Seville residence.

We visited the Catedral, which is Spain's largest cathedral and the home to Christopher Columbus' tomb. It reminded me a lot of every other cathedral that we have seen but with one unique addition: "La Giralda," the bell tower. We climbed (the ramp) to the top and took in some incredible panoramic views of the city (as the bell rang above my head)!

We then crossed the bridge to Calle Betis, a street the runs parallel to the river, for a sunny lunch and some Tinto de Verano along the water! My senora had packed me two bocadillos (baguettes) to go, so I wasn't very hungry, but I was disappointed to find out that Sevilla's well-known Gazpacho is only served during the summer season. After lunch we continued to the Triana area and Calle San Jacinto, which is known for its abundance of ceramica stores. Unfortunately, we arrived around 2 pm as they were all closing for siesta.

After returning to the Santa Cruz Barrio (the Old Jewish Quarter) in search of some ice cream, we were let down once again upon finding out that the well-known Rayas Heladeria (ice cream place) was closed for the season. After some searching, we managed to find a delicious substitute (chocolate truffle gelato) to enjoy near the Plaza del Salvador, which was full of local Sevillanas.

Heading towards the bullfighting museum, we stopped multiple times for some pastries and turron! We took a tour of the Plaza del Toros, Sevilla's large bullring and adjacent museum, and learned a lot about the culture of the "toreros." The large oval ring seats 1400 spectators in one of three "areas": sol (sun), sombra (shade), or sol y sombra. The most expensive seats are in the first three rows of the "sombra" area, and that is where the majority of the action occurs. The museum, chronologically divided into four rooms, displayed the heads of bulls who "put up a good fight," the "capotes" (capes) of famous bullfighters, and other artwork.

We ended the day with tapas and drinks on the famous Calle Mateas Gago. On our way there, we came across a group of men practicing for the Semana Santa Parade; Sevilla is known for its huge celebrations during Semana Santa and the Feria de Abril!

We enjoyed gourmet tapas at Cerveceria Giraldo (peppers stuffed with chicken) and Bodega Santa Ana (pincho de pollo). Before heading back to the bus station, we returned to Horno San Buenaventura for some baklava, cheesecake, and disaronno to end the night.

The narrow, winding streets of the historical Sevilla reminded me a lot of its neighbor, Granada, and I really enjoyed the reprieve from the bustling Madrid!

[Did you know: The saying "the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain" translates in Spanish to "la lluvia en Sevilla es una maravilla"? Well, luckily there was no rain for us; it was 65 degrees and sunny in early February!]