There's No Place Like Home

Or, lessons in "you can't go home again." Eight and a half hours after leaving the beautiful Terminal 4 of the Madrid Barajas Airport (pictured below), I landed in JFK. After a two hour traffic-filled ride, we turned onto Ballard Drive. Greeted by Colby, flowers, balloons, and cheesecake, it was a warm welcome-home!

I'm adjusting to the non-Spanish Google, earlier dinners, tipping at restaurants, driving a car, one-course lunches, an unlimited-text-messaging cell phone plan, doing my own laundry, and reversing other newly-learned habits. My first neighborhood run was weird with wide tree-lined streets, shorter separated houses (rather than towering apartments), and fresh air! Heading back to Hall High School and Vassar to see old friends was also quite a culture-shock. I'm satiating my Spanish cravings with some of my homemade gazpacho and Whole Foods' queso manchego. Hopefully it will hold me over 'til next time...

Thanks to all who read (or mocked!) my blog, wrote to me, sent care packages, and visited me in Spain -- I've had the time of my life, and I can't wait to share pictures and stories with everyone! Adios!

Ending on a High Note

I don't think my last few days in Madrid could have been any better (besides the leaving part)! On Friday I headed back to the Reina Sofia and Prado museums for the last time before meeting up with the majority of the Vassar-Wesleyan on program for a good bye drink at Cerveceria Alemania.

Today, Saturday, marked the Festival de San Isidro - a huge holiday in Madrid that honors... Saint Isidro! As a result, the past few nights have been filled with outdoor concerts and generally high spirits around the city, but today was particularly special. Gran Via, the main avenue in Madrid, was covered in a blue carpet and converted into a pedestrian-only zone. During the day, madrilenos pranced through the city streets in their traditional clothes -- the women donned mantillas (embroidered shawls) and red flowers in their hair while the men wore black and white plaid jackets with matching caps. Too cute!! Decorated with a huge cake in celebration of its 100th birthday, the main drag was also the site of music and midnight fireworks! How many people can say they've legally "botelloned" while sitting on Gran Via?!?

My last night is pretty hard to capture in words or pictures, but let's say we toasted to just about everything!

For my last big meal, my senora prepared gazpacho, paella, and flan! For dessert, I brought home some listas and Santa Claras (pastries that are typically enjoyed for the San Isidro Festival).

Right Place, Right Time

As I was heading to the gift shop at the Palacio Real to do some last minute shopping yesterday, I noticed an extra-long line. When I got a bit closer and talked to a security guard, I learned that people had gathered to welcome Club Atlético de Madrid after their recent victory in the championship against Fulham! After a few minutes, the double-decker team bus rounded the corner. Amidst cheers of "Atleeeetiii Atleeeetiii," the players chanted from the top and hoisted their silver cup into the air!! Later, my senora explained to me that the team was probably heading to the nearby Catedral de la Almudena to bless the trophy.

Aranjuez, Atlético, and Adiós Adam!

After a somewhat spontaneous decision, some friends and I caught an 11 am train to Aranjuez to visit the famous Palacio Real - the Spanish King's "springtime" residence. Although the royal home boasted many chandeliers, thrones, and overdone decorations similar to those in Madrid, there were some pretty unique treasures. We got to see the King's royal barbell set (covered in red velour), an exhibit on fans (abanicos) crafted from ivory, gold, lace, and other precious materials, and a display of wedding dresses worn by royal princesses (as recently as 2004). The palace had a distasteful mustard yellow theme in many rooms from floor to ceiling - perhaps to incite a springtime sentiment?!

Since Aranjuez is known for its strawberries, we decided to indulge in a huge 2€ carton for lunch. They were so fresh that we found a baby snail living on one... After lunch we meandered through the royal gardens!

Tonight is also Atlético Madrid's big soccer game against Fulham for the UEFA Champions League, hence the sea of red and white striped jerseys to in Sol... And, after our first college semester of living within twenty minutes of eachother, Adam boards his plane back to the United States tomorrow... ¡Buen viaje!

Café Crawl

Over the course of the semester, Abby and I made a point of visiting different cafés throughout the city to catch up and get to know the city's corners a little better. We found a different one to sample each Tuesday afternoon. Abby routinely chose a coffee, I chose a tea, and we "split" a postre (cake/pastry) or two... or three! Consider us connoisseurs.

In an effort to avoid sounding like a travel guidebook, here's a rundown of our hot spots:

- As novices we began at Café Cáscaras (near Abby's apartment) -- our first stop. The brownie a la mode was super delicious, A+ material. Nuff' said.

- We then ventured to Café Comercial (to which I have returned many times). Founded in 1887, it is one of the oldest cafés in Madrid. Although the waiters were somewhat surly, my After Eight chocolate mint tea hit the spot.

- We ended February with a stop at my favorite café, El Jardín Secreto (The Secret Garden). With beaded curtains in the window and slices of tree trunks for tables, the cozy spot mirrors my vision of a secret garden. Chocolate con helado caramelo (thick hot chocolate with caramel ice cream) and carrot cake made for the most delicious combination that I've had in Madrid all semester. Because the café didn't open until 5:30, we made a pit stop at Café Subiendo al Sur for some fair trade tea to kill time and stay out of the rain while waiting!

- The following week, our stop at Café Delic for some homemade mini cakes (dulce de avellana and zanahoria) rivaled the baked goods at El Jardín Secreto. Delic, located near my dance studio in Lavapies, gave me the energy needed for my first flamenco class!

- With the onset of beautiful weather, Abby and I tried the patio seating on Café de Orient (near the Palacio Real). Here we indulged in tea and some dense chocolate cake, which tasted even better with the sun beating down on us!

- The next week brought us to Café Marakech, per Lila's recommendation! We ordered a pot of the sweet mint tea of the house, which was served alongside a platter of assorted Moroccan pastries.

- Although Café Moderno wasn't quite as easy to find, the tea and three freshly-made "cakes of the house" were all a delight for the tastebuds. And, since Abby wasn't feeling well, I did the sampling for the two of us :)

- The prime location and painted ceilings of the Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes probably explained the higher prices. Regardless, the menu of 40+ varieties of tea, 16 types of frozen teas, and an assortment of liquid chocolates in addition to coffees and cocktails was impressive, if not slightly overwhelming (and we all know how quickly I make decisions in restaurants...)

- Most recently we went to the ever-so-popular La Mallorquina, a pastelería placed in the center of Sol! Known for their one euro napolitanas, the joint is quite the destination. We sipped tea and coffee on the second floor and washed it down with some chocolate truffles and a palmera.

Of course a weekly dose of tea and pastries doesn't hold me over, so I've ventured to some others and dragged along a friend or two on the way! Some of my favorites thus far include Lhardy Pastelería for its flaky, perfect chocolate palmeras, El Riojano for its warm, coral-colored walls, Café Ruiz (near my house) for the best chunky milkshake, Café Manuela for some board-game-playing and lemon-champagne-sorbet-sipping fun, Café Central (known for its nightly jazz) and Café del Real for some simple chamomile tea.

Hooked on 'Hoces del Río Duratón'

Yesterday we had our final program excursion to Hoces del Rio Duraton for an afternoon of kayaking before a traditional lunch of cordero asado (roasted lamb) in Sepulveda (near Segovia).

Along the way, two guides kayaked beside us and explained the historical, geographical, and natural context of the area. The national park gets its name from the sickle (hoz) shaped gorges within the Duraton canyon. Within the park lie two ancient monasteries, dangling on the precipice. The park is also home to various birds of prey including vultures, peregrine falcons, and eagles. Although the rain held off, it was a brisk morning on the water!

Our despedida (goodbye) lunch was salty, to say the least. Nonetheless, it was fun to catch up with people from the program who I don't regularly see! At the end of the lunch, we all shared some of our favorite moments, favorite sayings, and false expectations that we held before coming with the group!

[I didn't bring my camera on the trip for fear of dropping it in the water, so I thought a nice Google image would help plant the picture in your mind...]

Making a List, Checking it Twice

It's hard to believe that I have less than two weeks left in my study abroad stint! Along the way I've been writing down various memories, meals, and pet peeves -- are you surprised at all that I have millions of mini lists?! Anyway, here are a few of my favorites (in no particular order):

Top 6 Favorite Neighborhoods:

1. Malasaña - Madrid

2. Barri Gòtic - Barcelona

3. Red Light District - Amsterdam

4. Charlottenburg - Berlin

5. Le Marais - Paris

6. Santa Croce - Venice

Top 5 Favorite Restaurants:

1. La Bodeguita del Medio -Prague

2. Pan de Lujo - Madrid

3. Restaurante Branka - San Sebastian

4. Le Petite Chaise - Paris

5. La Giostra - Florence

Top 4 Favorite Sites:

1. Centre Pompidou - Paris

2. Palazzo Grassi - Venice

3. Guggenheim - Bilbao

4. Sagrada Familia - Barcelona

Top 3 Favorite Pastries/Desserts:

1. Chocolate palmeras from Lhardy - Madrid

2. Gelatto at Giolitti - Rome

3. Stroopwaffels - Amsterdam

Top 2 Most Frustrating Moments

1. Cancelled flight to Berlin

2. Traveling to customs in Madrid to pick up a package...

Best View

1. Torre de Mangia - Siena

And... in a moment of frustration and hostility I jotted down the following list of what I will miss least about Madrid:

- Restaurants without continuous service

- Paper thin napkins that don't absorb anything

- Paying for bread (and bottled water) in restaurants

- My 45 minute commute to school

- The weak U.S. dollar

- Smokers smoking everywhere

- Old ladies linking arms while walking down the street (and blocking the whole sidewalk)

- T-shirts with nonsense or mistranslated English sayings (ex: Detroit Dodgers?!)

- Pickpockets on the Metro

I thought I'd post this now so as not to end on a negative note. Rest assured, the aspects of Madrid that I will miss infinitely outweigh the insignificant things that irritate me!

Frolicking in Catalunya

My trip to Barcelona came and went in a blink. Because the majority of the museums were closed on Saturday May 1st due to Labor Day, we immediately hit up the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya just a couple of hours after landing from our early morning flight. Boasting a hearty collection, the museum was a swift introduction to our stay in the Catalan-infested region. From there, we wound our way through the Parc de Monjuïc to the Fundació Joan Miró. Among my favorite pieces were a floor-to-ceiling tapestry woven with hunks of yarn, a Calder mercury fountain in the courtyard, and the sculpture-speckled terrace. Lunch in the park gave us a burst of energy before venturing to the Museu Picasso. Although I wasn't a huge fan of the museum, I did enjoy the several rooms dedicated to Picasso's take on Velázquez's Las Meninas.

That evening, we sat in awe among the audience of a concert by a Spanish guitarist, Xavier Coll. It was not only his flawless picking on four different guitars that spanned four different eras of Spanish eras (and his 10 year old daughter accompanying him on cello for a double encore) that made the concert unforgettable, but also the modernisme hall in which the concert took place. Every inch of the palau was covered in undulating mosaics, intricate carvings, and bursts of color. A stained glass composition, punctuated by giant roses, dominated the ceiling.

Saturday brought Gaudi galore. We started from the rear of Parc Guell and made our way to the curvaceous benches and, eventually, the mobbed entranced marked by the famous lizard. We then waited on line (25 minutes for tickets and then 20 minutes for an audio guide) with every other tourist in Barcelona outside of the Sagrada Familia. Despite the construction, the church was INCREDIBLE, and I cannot wait to return to see the finished product (that is if it's completed during my lifetime)! Nature's influence was ever-so-evident in the monumental cathedral, and I really liked the exhibits that explained Gaudi's fascinating command of geometry. Our final stop was La Pedrera - Gaudi's famous apartment building. Continuing on our way towards Picasso's hangout (4 Gats) for lunch, we passed by various Gaudi contributions including Casa Batllo, some trippy lamp posts, and other wavy balconies.

After lunch, we strolled down Las Ramblas and wandered (okay, shopped...) throughout the Barri Gotic before making our way to the hotel for a much-needed siesta. A seafood dinner near the beach really sealed the deal! Two and a half days in Barcelona was not nearly enough time, but traveling with my parents, running into a long lost camp friend (and some current classmates from Madrid), and taking the high speed AVE back to Madrid (instead of having to deal with the airport) set this weekend apart from others.

Although I do love where I'm "studying," Barcelona did give Madrid a run for its money (food-wise, architecture/Gaudi-wise, and art-wise)! Oh well, at least we speak castellano here... none of that Catalan crap!

A Balancing Act

Last night, I returned to Teatro Compac (the same theater where I saw Tricicle) on Gran Via for a completely different show: Nebbia. The work, which means fog in Italian, was a Cirque du Soleil of sorts. The multi-talented performers engaged in a variety of acrobatics, dances, musical and instrumental tunes, and some rather bizarre talents (such as hopping like a kangaroo inside of a round tube). Comedic interjections/transitions lightened the otherwise jaw-droppingly serious tone.

A Walk in the Park

An over-crowded Estanque on Sunday didn't bode well for renting a rowboat, so we returned on Wednesday for a relaxing ride. With the sun beating down, the 45-minute float transported us to temporary utopia.

From there, we made our way to the nearby Royal Botanical Garden. Although the tulips were a little dried up, the garden held an impressive collection -- including a dark purple specimen named "Ronaldo!"

Beauty and the Beast

Given that both my parents and Adam's family overlapped in Madrid for a weekend, we took the opportunity to immerse ourselves in a wide range of Spanish "cultural" experiences -- some adventures were more fierce than others, but all were beautiful and impressive in their own right.

Topping the beautiful list is Toledo. After a quick 30 minute train ride, we arrived in the holy city to poke around for the day, admire the cathedral, bask under the blue skies, and enjoy some roast suckling pig. Although it was my third day trip to Toledo, the walled-city never ceased to amaze me.

The evening's entertainment brought a flamenco spectacular at Las Tablas. The musicians came from a mix of Andalucian towns, and one guitarist hailed from Brazil! The trio of dancers fervently stomped their feet, but it was the final dancer, a petite man, who was truly beastly. He pranced on his heels and routinely made ever-so-sexual eye contact with a lucky someone in the audience. [His sweat radiated from his small tuft of hair in the front, and our front row seats gave us the privilege of soaking up some beads!]

The beauty didn't end there. We spent Sunday afternoon in the Parque del Buen Retiro admiring the lush grass and winding trails that lay hidden among the majestic Palacio Cristal and Estanque. Although we didn't get a chance to rent a rowboat, we found ourselves entertained by the sheer beauty of the park and the handful of magicians that dotted the larger paths.

You may be wondering where the remaining beastly portion of the weekend lies. For this half, we traveled to Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas for a corrida, or bullfight. We came in to the stadium with an open mind (and left after the third bull died with a resolution to never return again). To say the bullfight was "unique" or "novel" would be an understatement; it is unlike anything I had ever experienced. It has been compared to art, to a game (although the winner is predetermined), and to an evening of opera. Some find it cruel and inhumane, while others are able to justify their attendance. To be honest, I still don't know where I stand (however, the young girl throwing up as we left had certainly made up her mind).

By the second "fight," I had picked up on the routine of the extravaganza as carried out in distinct thirds by the matador and his entourage (picadors mounted on horseback and banderilleros holding flags). Each fight had its distinguishing characteristics - in the second fight the bull stepped on the matador's foot (ouch!) and the torero in the third fight unsuccessfully attempted to kill the bull five times (at that point the audience started hissing at the matador and cheering for the toro ... and we decided to call it a day). For more pictures and stories, feel free to ask me when I get home, but I'll spare everyone else the details...

To dismiss the bullfight as grotesque would be unfair. The event had its moments of beauty -- the bullring itself is meticulously kept, the matador's costumery is intricate, and the ceremonial music and processional are enjoyable, as well.

At any rate, I'm curious to read Hemingway's take on the ordeal in Death in the Afternoon.

Flying High

With family here to visit, I stayed in Madrid for the weekend. But, I couldn't resist the temptation to, once again, find myself airborne! The Teleferico provided a temporary remedy: a 1.5 mile gondola ride over the Parque del Oeste in Madrid. The journey made way for views of the Palacio Real, the park's random sports fields, the Manzanares River, and, in the distance, the Warner Brother's Amusement Park.

Keepin' it Real

Last night I was given the great privilege of attending a Real Madrid futbol game at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu. The cloudy skies cleared just in time, and the match against Valencia was truly spectacular -- filled with a few yellow cards, some convincing "injuries," a dose of offsides calls (brought me back to my days of youth league reffing), a couple of well-placed goals, and an earful of cheering, "Venga, Sergio!"

Madrileno pride (and security) was ever-so-evident (though not as "machista" as I had expected), and the athleticism was jaw-dropping. Never have I seen so many perfectly toned legs in one 6400 square meter area! It seemed as if Ronaldo ran even faster when he had the ball at his feet, and Guti's command of the center field was flawless.

A Hearty Shalom!

Last night I went to a Friday night Shabbat service at the Comunidad Judia de Madrid (Madrid's JCC). The understated building sits about 300 meters away from the Iglesia (church) Metro stop -- a testament to the predominance of Catholicism and the waning Jewish population in Spain.

Upon entering, I was questioned, and a man asked to see my passport. After being admitted, I climbed several flights of stairs (and one additional flight to head to the balcony where all the women were seated). I suspected that the space followed the Sephardic Orthodox tradition, but this was the first time that I had experienced this blatant gender segregation.

Having arrived somewhat late, I came in during the middle of what seemed to be the Rabbi's sermon. He was preaching (in Spanish) about the necessity for love and peace - a seemingly cliche topic. After speaking, he returned to his seat. Expecting some sort of order, I was surprised when a random man among the crowd began to lead the congregation with the Mourner's Kaddish. The familiar sounds of Hebrew were refreshingly comforting. From there, the service seemed to come to a sloppy conclusion with little unity; each individual recited the prayers out loud at his own pace. A few minutes later, a young boy initiated a prayer, as well. Given the lack of organization, it was quite difficult to discern who was in charge.

With black pants and a blouse, I felt appropriately dressed. Looking around, I noticed a large range of attire from long black skirts to mini denim skirts for the women and athletic pants to suits for the men.

I was caught off guard when the service ended so promptly but on the other hand excited for what lay ahead: the Oneg! At my synagogue, the Oneg traditionally consists of a hearty loaf of challah, some Manischewitz, and an assortment of baked goods. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised to see that this Oneg offered olives, potato chips, slices of meat, and peanuts. Bummer!

The Grass is Always Greener in Amsterdam

It's tempting to sum up Amsterdam in three simple words: pot, prostitution, and pancakes. The weed was legal and easily attainable (with varied menus and an abundance of coffeeshops) as was the Red Light District, filled with some hard-working, scantily clad women. And, of course the pancakes (sweet and savory) were scrumptious. The city truly opened my eyes to a highly progressive, accepting culture (and served as the ideal location to reunite with close friends from high school and celebrate Bennett’s 21^st birthday). With our convenient accommodations on Warmoesstraat (in the heart of the gay/S&M district), we were lucky enough to witness first hand the liberal mindset that this city embraces!

In between the sinning, we made room for some sightseeing including the Van Gogh Museum (impressive despite the fact that some of his most famous works were undergoing restoration), the Rijksmuseum, the floating tulip market, the Heineken Experience, and the Anne Frank House.

Although the tourist “attractions” were worth the visit, it was the subtle, quirky characteristics of Amsterdam that fascinated me the most. For example, the leaning houses (designed to avoid taxes on the width of the house and then aggravated by the swampy/silty foundations) were quite perplexing. The clean canals transported me right back to Venice. Instead of dodging cars when jaywalking, it was a bicycle, the city’s preferred mode of transportation, that I sought to avoid!

However, I’d have to say that best day of my semester abroad thus far had to have been Saturday April 10, 2010. Thirty minutes after boarding a train from Amsterdam Centraal Station to Den Haag Centraal, I landed in the arms of Tamara, my former au pair (and last of eight). Although I hadn’t seen her since the left the United States 13 years ago (when I was entering third grade), I couldn’t have felt more comfortable. I spent the entire day with her – meeting her beautiful blonde family, perusing through her six hefty scrapbooks of her year on Ballard Drive, visiting her childhood home, touring the Royal Delft pottery factory, sharing memories, and shedding tears. It was truly a trip down memory lane, and I feel so lucky to have maintained such a strong bond with such an incredible friend.

Although it was hard to say goodbye to Tamara and the Netherlands, I look forward to spending my dwindling remaining weeks in Madrid in the company of friends and… FAMILY!

We'll All Float On...

I’ll admit that upon arriving in Venice (the final leg of my spring break), I was feeling sick, and walking had become quite painful given my throbbing foot. In a city without cars, I wasn’t off to a good start. However, the magic of the canals that surrounded me (along with a daily dose of gelato), seemed to numb the pain.

I also thought that I couldn’t tolerate one more cathedral, one more tower with a panoramic view, or one more museum. But, the Basilica di San Marco proved me wrong. The view from the terrace was second to none, and the golden mosaics were quite captivating.

We made time for the must-see stops at I Frari (to marvel at Titian’s masterpiece), the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (with a sweet sculpture garden), the Gallerie dell’Accademia, and the Ponte de Suspiri. However, a few lesser-traveled landmarks stick out in my mind…

We took an Itinerari Segreti (Secret Passageways) tour of the Palazzo Ducale (home to Venice’s Doge) that exposed the hidden torture rooms, offices, and archives of the historic building. The tour was a much-desired change of pace from the occasionally gaudy, art-ridden palaces that I had seen thus far.

Filled to the brim with contemporary art, the Palazzo Grassi was one of my favorite European museums to date. A large installation (composed of a lit-up electric disco floor accompanied by hip-hop Ludacris jams and juxtaposed with a collage of Warhol-esque Nazi portraits to recall the human desire for mindless fun) occupied the front entrance way. On the second floor, an installation by Adel Abdessemed blew my mind. Titled Black Rain, the piece incorporated larger than life drill bits that rose from ground to signify the penetrating disruption caused by cultural violence in South Africa.

We caught a glimpse of some Murano glass-blowing in action at a showroom on the Piazza di San Marco. In less than 3 minutes, the master scultped a horse!

A Vivaldi Easter concert by the premier group, Interpreti Veneziani, sealed the week. Although all of the concertos were impressive, the final piece of the double-encore left me with my jaw drooping! From our third row seats, we could see the violinist’s pulsating forehead vein!

My various gelato samples sure did add up, but I’ll share a few of my favorite combinations: lemon & artichoke topped the list followed by a large mix of kiwi, straciatella, bacio, & banana, and lastly pink grapefruit & yogurt!

The trip was quite a success, and I returned to Madrid without a hitch (but with some leather goods in tow)!